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LGBT Travel: Safely navigating a bigger world

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SIEM REAP, CAMBODIA - JANUARY 13: A young monk sits in front of the Angkor Wat temple reflected on a lake on January 1, 2016 in Siem Riep, Cambodia. Angkor was the capital city of Khmer Empire, which flourished from approximately the 9th to 15th centuries. Angkor was a megacity supporting at least 0.1% of the global population during 1010-1220. The city houses the magnificent Angkor Wat, one of Cambodia's popular tourist attractions. (Photo by Xaume Olleros/Getty Images)
SIEM REAP, CAMBODIA - JANUARY 13: A young monk sits in front of the Angkor Wat temple reflected on a lake on January 1, 2016 in Siem Riep, Cambodia. Angkor was the capital city of Khmer Empire, which flourished from approximately the 9th to 15th centuries. Angkor was a megacity supporting at least 0.1% of the global population during 1010-1220. The city houses the magnificent Angkor Wat, one of Cambodia's popular tourist attractions. (Photo by Xaume Olleros/Getty Images)Xaume Olleros / Contributor/Getty Images

Sure, you can go to South Beach in Miami, Provincetown or Ibiza and know that being gay is more likely to be celebrated than scrutinized. After the devastating attack in Orlando, however, we’re reminded that safety remains a serious concern for LGBT travelers. Gay clubs that were previously considered safe spaces have lost a certain sense of security and that loss extends to travel destinations. Is travel to Russia off the list? How about India, where homosexuality is actually illegal? What about countries on the African continent?

Tour operators and travel publishers take safety issues seriously for all travelers, obviously, but sometimes they have to go the extra mile when considering recommendations for gay travelers.

“LGBT people are travelers, too, looking to design trips that satisfy their priorities. It’s quite a big component of our business, and we’ve developed a lot of sensitivity to give our travelers enough information to feel really comfortable,” says Kili McGowan, co-owner and managing director of Berkeley-based Next Adventure (www.nextadventure.com), a safari agency specializing in custom itineraries in nine African countries and India.

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Some countries are easier than others for travelers to be open in, but even regions within a country can vary, just as in the United States, McGowan noted. Founded by her parents in 1996, the company makes sure to brief LGBT travelers on what to expect in each case.

“Some are laws, some are just prejudices. It’s an interesting conversation to have; people really appreciate when I bring it up.

“We advised two gay men traveling to Tanzania this October that they should not apply as a married gay couple for their visa in Tanzania; they should apply as single men. They’re doing an extension in Zanzibar, so we had a discussion of areas where you should be more discreet about a relationship. Stone Town has a very traditional Muslim culture, so it’s not appropriate in that culture to be very openly affectionate, but rather to present yourself as friends traveling together.”

Kevin Callaghan, president of adventure travel operator Mountain Travel Sobek (www.mtsobek.com) in Emeryville, has a slightly different view.

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“By and large, our travelers are sophisticated and experienced enough that we’re rarely asked questions about safety in regards to being gay. On the few occasions when we’ve been asked, it’s simply not been an issue when we’re in destination,” he says. “Every place we go, the people in the tourism industry in those countries are open to all visitors. On both sides, travelers and operators, they’re enlightened and understanding.”

He adds, “We take very small groups. In December, I’m leading a tour to Saudi Arabia for eight people. It’s not like they’re going to miss the bus pickup or the ship leaving port. Plus, small groups have a way of blending in somewhat, but it’s still obvious we’re travelers.”

Why all this concern for the gay traveler? It’s not just a concern for the human condition. The global LGBT travel market is now worth about $200 billion. That’s with a ‘b.’

“Here’s the fundamental issue with all this, is that we are celebrating all the different stripes of readers and members of the community,” says Brandon Presser, travel editor for Out magazine (www.out.com/travel-nightlife) and host of the reality show “Tour Group” on Bravo.

“Pigeonholing a destination as LGBT, in a way, does a great disservice to our readership. I think you can just put every destination in the world into one of two buckets, LGBT-friendly, not-LGBT friendly. It’s important to divvy up what are these destinations like and who are they for, because not every reader is the same.

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“To presuppose that every single LGBT traveler is going to want to go to X destination betrays the whole point of the (gay rights) movement of further showcasing that we’re all different people, and this is just a facet of who we are.”

Ed Salvato, editor in chief of ManAboutWorld.com, a digital travel magazine for the LGBT set, agrees.

“Being gay or lesbian (unlike being left-handed or tall) is a strongly important characteristic to consider when making certain decisions, especially those relating to travel and tourism,” Salvato says. “For instance, in which hotel will I be safe and welcomed? In which destination or on which cruise can I walk hand in hand with my partner or can we enjoy some time in the sun being two men or two women with two kids? Straight people almost never have to think about such things.”

“Gays in protected bubbles like New York and L.A. can pretty much go anywhere and do anything they want (almost),” he added. “But when you think about Cuba, China, India, Cambodia or Iran, you have to pause and really think: Will I be safe? Will my partner be safe?”

Presser offers, “It’s a constellation of elements that come together for every individual when making a decision about where you want to go. Part of that is also past travel experience. I would say that a destination like India may not be the right decision for someone who’s never left the continental United States before.”

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David Lytle is a San Francisco freelance writer. Former Travel editor Jeanne Cooper contributed to this report. Email: travel@sfchronicle.com

Safety tips for LGBT travelers

Ed Salvato, editor in chief of ManAboutWorld, offers salient advice for LGBT travelers when considering their next travel destination.

Do your homework: Read LGBT-focused publications and follow trusted writers and bloggers to find out where you may want to go next. Check out the U.S. State Department’s LGBTI Travel Information page at https://travel.state.gov/content/passports/en/go/lgbt.html, and the International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association at IGLTA (www.iglta.org).

Respect the local culture: Know the norms before you go. For example, in Thailand men have to cover their shoulders and can’t wear shorts to temples. Always pack a lightweight jacket or sweater and long pants so you can go to temples. In certain countries displays of public affection are frowned upon (whether you’re a same sex or opposite couple), like in Japan or conservative Muslim countries.

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Be yourself. Being your authentic self when you travel (while respecting norms) will allow you to meet people and build bridges and understanding. It’s the best way gay travelers can change hearts and minds.

But be careful. Don’t endanger anyone at a destination that is not overtly gay-friendly. Know that if you’re on hookup apps like Grindr or Scruff, you must be careful. The authorities are sometimes “phishing.” For a visitor, the worse that can usually happen is being expelled from the country. A local, however, can be treated rather more harshly. If you are careless about meeting local people you may actually put them in jeopardy if someone is monitoring their communications.

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David Lytle